Buttonhole sewing machine



Feb. 9, 1932. J. KIEWICZ BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE 1928 6 Sheets-SheetFiled April 14 AYE 4:2.

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lnvenTor. John Kiewicg byWWJ W.

Feb. 9, 1932. J. KIEWICZ BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE Filed April 14, 1928'6 Sheets-Sheet 3 lnven'for. Uohn Kiewicg ATTys.

Feb. 9, 1932. J. KIEWICZ 1,844,426

BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE Filed April 14, 1928 6 Sheets-Sheet 5 W WiVNHllll I n v e n To 1".

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Feb. 9, 1932.

J. KIEWICZ 1,844,426

BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE Filed April 14, 1928 6 Sheets-Sheet 6 93? I03F1 g. 16. e2 6 2| 4s l 32 as 2g /2 9 27 lnvenTor.

ll'! W, John Kiewic Any Patented F el). 9, 1932 UNITED STATES PATENTOFFICE JOHN KIEWIOZ, OF BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNOR TO THE REECEBUTTON HOLE MACHINE COMPANY, 011 BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS, A CORPORATION OFMAINE BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE Application filed April 14,

This invention relates to buttonhole sewing machines and pz'irtlcularlyto means for trimming the thread and cutting the buttonholc slit attheend of the sewing operation.

stay cord also. if one is used). 1

According to one feature of the invention the means for cutting one ofthe threads is *arried and operated by the buttonhole cutting inc hanismso that at the end of the buttonhole the operation of cutting the buttonhole also results in cutting one oi the threads.

The huttonhole sewing machine herein shown is of that type adapted tosew a. but tonhole with an eye and 111 which the stitchv il'ormingmechanism mounted to rotate at each end of the huttonhole.

According to another feature of the invention the means for cutting theother thread is arranged to be actuated by the devices tor rotating thest' clrforming mechanism so that as the stitch-forming mechanism isturned at the end of the buttonhole the thread will at the same time hesevered.

Another teature of the invention relates to novel means for holding theunder thread utter it is cut and until the first stitches he e been madeon the next succeeding buttonhole thereby ensuring the proper formationof the lirst stitches.

Other features of the invention relate to various improvements inbuttonhole sewing machines all as will be more fully hereinafter forth.

ln order to give an uiulcrstanding oi the invention 1 have illustratedin the drawings a selected embodiment thereof which will now hedescribed atter which the novel features will he pointed out in theappended claims.

l ig. l is a side view ot a sewing machine cmhmlyine' my invention;

l ig. 2 :1 plan view oi the work-supporting portion ot the lied with theclamp plates removed to show the part of the huttouhole cu": 11gmechanism and the cutter tor the upper thread; i

1928. Serial No. 269,985.

Fig. 3 is a section on the line 3--3 of Fig. 2;

Fig. 4 is an under side view of the bed showing the means for actuatingthe under thread cutter;

Fig. 5 is a front elevation of the head showing the pull-oil for theupper thread;

Fig. 6 is a fragmentary View illustrating the cutter for the underthread and stay cord;

Figs. 7 and 8 are views of two opposite sides of the turret and underthread mechanism;

Figs. 9 and 10 are views of the under thread mechanism illustrating thetension release for the under thread and the under thread grippingdevice;

Fig. 11 is a fragmentary plan view 01 the turret illustrating the meansfor actuating the under thread gripping device;

Fig. 12 is a section on the line 12-12, Fig. 9;

Fig. 13 is a f 'agmentary view showing the buttonhole cutters inoperative position;

Fig. 14 is a plan view similar to Fig. 2 but illustrating the turret inthe position it occupies at the end of the buttonhole;

Fig. 15 is a section on the line 1515,

16 is a section 011 the line 1G16, Fig. 14;

Fig. 17 is a fragmentary view showing the operation of the pull-oil forthe upper thread.

In the drawings 1 indicates the frame of the sewing machine whichcarries the stitchforming mechanism, the latter comprising the upperneedle 2 mounted in the verticallyreciprocating needle bar 3 andoperating from above the work, and under-thread mechanism, indicatedgenerally at 4, and sit uated beneath the work.

The frame 1 is mounted on the bed 81 which carries the work clamps. 46by which the other of which is a cutting block.

fact that the frame 1 is allowed to move back and forth on the bed 31.

As stated above, the sewing machine herein shown is of that type inwhich the stitchforming mechanism is mounted to rotate at each end ofthe buttonhole and for this purpose the under thread mechanism 4 ismounted on the usual turret 5 which carries at its upper end the throatplate 6 having the sewing opening 7 through which the upper needleoperates, said turret being mounted to rotate in suitable bearings 8.The needle bar 3 with the needle 2 is also mounted to rotate and themeans herein shown for giving the turret and the needle bar theirrotation'almovements at each end of the buttonhole is such as iscommonly employed in buttonhole sewing machines.

This rotational movement is secured from a vertically-arranged rockshaft 9 journalled in the frame and carrying. at its upper end asegmental gear 10 meshing with a gearing 11 by which the needle bar is;turned, said shaft carrying at its lower end another segmental gear 12which meshes with a gear 13 on the turret 5. The turning movement of therock shaft 9 is secured at proper times from the main cam 14 which ismounted in the usual cam casing 15 that is secured to the frame 1. Therock shaft 9 has the arm 16 rigid therewith which is connected by a link17 to the end of a lever 18 pivoted to the cam housing at 19, said leverbeing given a vibrating movement from full to dotted line position Fig.4 through the medium of a cam groove. (not shown) formed in the main cam14. This means for rotating the stitch-forming mechanism is such as iscommonly employed in buttonhole sewing machines.

The machine herein shown is also provided with buttonhole cuttingmechanism for cutting the buttonhole slit. This cutting mechanismcomprises two cutting elements 20 and 21, one of which is a cuttingblade ind he element 20 is shown as mounted on a lever 22 pivoted to theframe at 23 and having at its rear end a follower 24 adapted to beengaged by a cam projection 25 on the main cam 14, said cam projectionbeing so disposed that at the proper time in the sewing cycle the lever22 will be actuated to bring the cutting element 20 into operativeposition. The other cutting element 21 is movably mounted, it normallybeing inits retracted position shown in Fig. 1 during the sewing on thebutton hole but being moved forward into'its operative position shown inFig. 13 at the time that i the lever 22 is actuated.-

Either cutting element maybe the cutting blade and the other the cuttingblock. In the construction shown the member 20 is in the form of a blockand the member 21 has the cutting edge but so far as the invention isconcerned the member 20 may have the cutting edge and the member 21might be in the form of a block.

The cutting member 21 is carried by a block 26 which is adjustablycarried by a slide 27 that slides back and forth in ways 28 formed onthe cam casing 15. The block 26 is retained in its adjusted position onthe slide 27 through the mediumof clamping screws 29.

As stated above the cutting element 21 and the block26 on which it ismounted are normally inretracted position shown in Figs. 1 and 2 butthey are'move'd forward into the operative position shown in Figs. 13and 9 by the operative movement of the lever 22.

This isaccomplished by the following mechanism. Slidably mounted inbearings 30 carried by the stationary bed31 of the, ma-

chine is a controlling rod 32, the latter having an arm 33 fast thereto,the end 34 of which' extends into an opening formed in the side of theblock 26. This rod 32 is provided with a notch in which is received thelower end of a lever 36, the latter being pivoted at 37 to a bracket 38on the frame 1., This lever is provided with a cam surface 39 adapted tobe engaged by a roller 40 on the end of a lever 41 pivoted at 42 to theframe, said lever having at its rear end a lateral projection 43 adaptedto be engaged by the rear end of the lever 22. The lever 41 is acted onby a spring'44 which tends to hold it in the position shown inFig. 1 andthe lever 36 is acted on by a return spring 45.

When the lever 22 is actuated to bring the cutting element 20 intooperative position the upward movement ofthe rear end of the lever willrock the lever 41 thereby causing the roll 40 to engage the cam surface39 andswing the lever 36 forwardly into the position shown in Fig. 13.Such movement of the lever will carry therod 32 forwardly thereby movingthe slide27 forwardly and placing the cutting element 21 into itsoperative position shown in Fig. 13. Hence. as the cutting element 20moves downwardlythe cooperating element 21 will move forwardly intoposition beneath the element 20 and the two elements will serve to outthe buttonhole slit in the work which is then held in place by the workclamps 46.

One feature of my present invention relates to means associated with thebuttonhole cutting mechanism for cutting the upper thread at the endofthe sewing operation. As usual, in buttonhole sewing machines thestitch-forming mechanism is so constructed that when the machine comesto rest with with the cutting element 21 for cutting the leg of the loopl? as the buttonhole slit cut. This is accomplished. by a cutter 49 thatis carried by the block 26 and is situated in front of the cuttingelement 21. This cut ting blade i9 is so disposed that when the cuttingelement 21 moves forwardly into its opeiatiw position as shown in Figs.9 and 13 said cutting blade ill will pass underneath the threat 6. Thisblade is formed with the hook portion 50 having its front edge 51 curvedand its rear edge 52 formed as a cutting edge.

During the movement of the cutter 49 into the position shown in Figs. 9and 13 the leg .-l8 of the loop ll" will engage the curved face 51 andwill be deflected thereby behind the book 50 as shown in Fig. 13 so thatduring the buttonhole cutting operation the leg l8 of the loop 4? islocated in the rear of the hook 00. hen the cutting of the buttonhole iscon'lpleted and the follower 24- passes oil from the cam 25 the springsrel and l5 will return the slide 27 and cutting element El to their norial retracted position, this return movement being a rapid one. Duringthe return movement the cutting edge 52 will sever the leg l8 of theloop e7 directly be neath the throat (3. The cutting of the upperthread, therefore, is tlCCOlTlPllSllQCl by means associated with thebuttonhole cutting mechanism.

l have also provided herein means for en gaging the upper thread andpulling the cut loop l7 bac through the work so as to leave a sufficientlength of thread projecting from the eye of the needle 2 to permit ofthe pro per formation of the first stitch on the next lnittonholc. Thispulling out of the loop is accomplished by a pull-oil lever 53 (seeFigs. 1, and 17) which is pivoted to the frame 1 at 54. The end of thepull-off lever is formed with a thread-retaining notch During the sewingon the buttonhole said lever is in the full line position Fig. 5, itbeing retained therein by means of a spring 156. As the but tonhole iscut the lever is swung into the dotted line position Fig. 5 during whichmovement the notched end wipes by the length of upper thread t, saidlever being so arranged that when it is in the dotted line position saidthread in line with the notch Jitter the buttonhole is cut the lever 53is swun back into the full line position during which movement thethread 2? is engaged by the notch 55 and the movement of the pulloil'nulls the cut loop out through the work.

For thus operating the pull-oil device the in or is provided with afinger 56 which ituated above the inclined pull-off arm as hown in YVhenthe lever makes its operative movement this finger 56 will engage thelever 53 and will swing it back into the dotted line position and assoon as the bnttonhole has been cut and the arm 22 is rel in turned toits raised position the spring 156 will return the pull-off arm 53 toits operative posit-ion thus pulling off the cut loop of upper thread.

F or cutting the under thread, as well as stay cord, if one is used, Ipropose to employ a cutter 57 which is carried by a rock shaft 58journalled in one of the clamp plates 59, said cutter having the cuttingedge 60. This thread cutter is simiar to thread cutters which haveheretofore been used for cutting the under thread and it is in the formof a plate operating directly above the clamp plates and thus lyingunderneath the work.

l/Vhen the sewing on the buttonhole has been completed the cutter 57 isswung from the full to the dotted line position Fig. 6 thus carrying thecutting edge 60 across the sewing opening of the throat 6 which at thistime in the sewing circle is located in the position shown in Fig. 6.This cutting movement of the thread cutter 57 will sever the underthread close to the work and bet-ween the latter and the throat and willalso cut the stay cord, if one is used.

In the present embodiment of my invention the ope 'ative movement of thethread cutter 57 is derived from the means for rotating thestitch-forming mechanism.

It will be understood by those skilled in the art that after the sewingon the buttonhole has been completed the stitch-forming mechanism isdriven a half rotation to return it to proper position to begin thesewing on the next buttonhole and it is during this rotation of thestitch-forming mechanism that the cutter 57 is operated.

The rock shaft 58 has fast thereto an arm 61 which is adapted to beengaged by a projection 62 carried by a slide 63. This slide 63 isguided at one endby a guidii'ig pin 64: which is mounted on the underside of the bed 31 and extends through a slot 65 in the slide, the otherend of the slide being pivotally con nected to a lever 66 which ispivoted to the bed at 67. This lever has at its rear end a latch member68 adapted to be engaged by a projection 69 forn'ied on the link 17. Thelever (36 is acted on by a return spring 70 which normally holds it inthe position shown in Fig. at.

The sewing machine herein shown is of that type in which the frame 1moves back and forth on the bed 31 during the stitching along the sidesof the buttonhole, said frame and cam casing moving from the full to thedotted line position, Fig. 4-. when sewing down the first side of thebuttonhole and then returning to the full line position when sewing thesecond side of the buttonhole. lVhen the sewing on the buttonhole hasbeen. con1- pleted the parts are in the full line position Fig. l withthe projection 69 behind the latch 68. At this time the main cam 14moves the lever 18 from the full to the dotted to the dotted lineposition the projection 69 will be carried out of engagement with thelatch 68 thusallowing th-elever 66 to hereturned to its initial positionby the spring 70. The cutter 57 is-"also returned to its initialposition by a spring 71.? The cutting of the under thread and stay cordalso if one is used, is thus accomplished by the means which gives theturret its rotation at the end of the buttonhole.

I have also provided novel means for gripping the under thread a afterit is cut and holding the cut end'unt-il after the first few stitcheshave been completed on the next buttonhole, and l have further providedmeans co-operating with the thread-gripping device to pull off a lengthof under thread after the latter has been gripped thereby to providesufficient slack thread to enable the first stitches to be properlyformed.

The under thread a extendsfrom the source of supply through a suitableguiding tube 7 2 carried by the turret, thence through the under threadtension 73 comprising the usual tension disks 74,775 between which thethread passes and which are held in frictional con 7 tact with thethread by the spring 76, thence Fig. 10 thereby releasing the underthread.

through a. guide eye 77 at the end of aresilient pull-oil arm 7 8,thence through another guiding tube 7 9 to one of the loopers of theunder thread mechanism and from the looper through an opening 80 in thethroat 6 which leads to the sewing opening thereof, this being the usualway of threading up under thread mechanism of this type.

The means for gripping the under thread a at the end of the sewingoperation comprises a gripping finger 81 which cooperates with ashoulder 82 formed on the throat 6 adjacent the opening 80, saidshoulder being so disposed that thethread passes over the shoulder as itis led through the throat 6. This thread-gripping finger 81 is normallyseparated from the shoulder 82 as shown in Fig.

10 but at the end of the sewing operation it is, moved into engagementwith the shoulder asshown in Fig. 9 thereby gripping theunder thread a.and it remains in this operative position until the sewing has startedon the next succeeding buttonhole., at which time it is returned to itsinoperative position shown in This finger 81 is carried by a bar 83which the "turret; This bar has a leaf-spring 85 secured thereto whichbears against the turret and which normally tends to swing thethread-clamping arm into its operative position. 1

As stated above said arm is held in its inoperative position during thesewing of the buttonhole. The means for accomplishing this in theconstruction herein shown comprises a slide 86 carried in a suitableguide 87 mounted on the turret and having a projection 88 provided witha cam face 89. When the slide 86 is in the position shown in dottedlines FigLl the projection 88 occupies an opening 90in thethread-gripping finger 81 and at this time the spring 85 will hold thegripper inits operative position. If the slide 86 is moved into theposition shown in Fig. 11 then the cam face 89 of the projection 88engages the inclined face 91 at the end of the opening 90 with theresult that the finger 81 is cammed or forcedbackwardly into itsinoperative position. The movement ofthe slide 86 is suflicient so-thatthe projection 88 can be carriedbehind said finger and thus when theparts are in the position shown in Fig. 11 the gripping finger is heldin its inoperative position by the projection 88. This is the positionwhich the parts assume during the sewing on-the buttonhole.

- I have provided herein means operative when the sewing on thebuttonhole is completed to'move the slide to the left Fig. 11, or to theright Fig. 14:, thereby releasing the gripping 'finger'and allowing itto move into gripping engagement with the under thread a.

It will be remembered that the turret 5.

on which the slide 86 is mounted, has a half revolution at each end Y ofthe buttonhole. During the stitching on the first side of the buttonholethe turret is in the position shown in Fig. 2 and the frame 1 with theturret is moving backwardly or toward the top of Fig.2. When the firstside of the buttonhole has been'sewed the turret is given a halfrotation to sew around the'eye of the buttonhole and then during thesewing of the second side-of the buttonhole the frame v1 on whichtheturret is mounted is moved forwardly thus bringing the turret into theposition shown in Fig. 14:. As the buttonhole is completed the end 92 ofthe slide 86 i situated opposite the end 93 of a lever 94 which ispivotedat 95 to the bed plate and means are provided which becomeoperative at the completion of the buttonhole to swing the lever 94therebycausing it to shift the slide 86 into a position to release thethread gripping fingerSl therebyf allowing said finger to clampthe underthread it against 3 the shoulder 82. This operative movement is given tothe lever 94 through the medium of the rod 32 which, it will beremembered, is

the rod that moves the cutting element 21 into its operative position.

The lever 94 is shown as having a cam face and the rod 32 is providedwith a collar 07 situated to engage the cam face when the rod given itsoperative movement. Hence W 'hen the buttonhole cutter is actuated tocut the buttonhole the lever 94 will be turned into the dotted lineposition Fig. 14 by the collar 97 and such movement of the lever 04 willshift the slide 86 and thus render the under-thread gripping linger 81operative.

Simultaneously with the gripping of the under thread by the finger 81 alength of r under thread will be drawn through the tension 73. This isprovided for by the action of the pull-oil arm 7 8 together with the rlc: ing of the frictional pressure of the tension. 73 on the underthread.

The arm 78 is made of light spring and during the sewing operation thetension on the under thread a will be sufiicient so that the arm will bein the dotted line position Fig. 8. If the tension '73 is released,however, the resiliency of the arm 7 8 will cause it to move into thefull line position Fig. 8 thus drawing a length of thread through thetension, it being remembered that the under thread held by the grippingfinger 81.

Means are provided for releasing the tension 73 simultaneously *ith thegripping of the under thread by the finger 81. To accomggilnh this thebar 83 is provided with a depending linger 98 which acts against one endof lever 99 pivoted to the turret at 100, the other end of said leveracting against one end of a thrust pin 101 which finds a bearing in theturret, said thrust pin 1n turn acting against a follower 102 againstwhich the tension spring 76 bears.

Under normal operation the disk 102 rests against the tension disk 74 sothat the pressure of the spring 76 is applied to the tension d ish, thisbeing the position of the parts when the clamping finger 81 is in itsinoperative position shown in Fig. 10. When said clamping finger ismoved into its operative position, however, the depending arm 98 rec thelever 99 thus n'ioving the thrust pin 101 into the position shown inFig. 12 and thereby taking the spring tension off from the tensiondisks. As soon as this tension is relieved the resiliency of thepull-off arm causes it to move into the full line position Fig. 8 thusdrawing off a length of under thread as above described.

It will thus be seen that the tension 73 and the thread-gripping arm 81operate in opposition, the tension being operative when thethreed-gripping arm is in inoperative position, as shown in Figs. and11, and the tension being inoperative when the thread-gripping arm is inoperative in Figs. 9 and 12.

I have described above how the threadposition, as. shown gripping finger81 is brought into its operative position shown in Figs. 2 and 9 at theend of the sewing operation. Said finger remains in this operativeposition until after the stitching has begun on the next buttonhole atwhich time the finger is again thrown into its inoperative position byshifting the slide 86 into the position shown in Fig. 11.

For accomplishing this I have provided the following mechanism.Pivotally mounted on the turret bearing at 103 is a lever 104 which isacted upon by a suitable spring 105, said spring normally holding thelever against the stop 106. The slide 86 is formed at its end 92 withthe ear 107. It will be remembered that the turret is in the positionshown in Fig. 2 during the sewing on the first side of the buttonholeand that it makes a half rotation into the position shown in Fig. 14 insewing around the eye of the buttonhole so that at the completion of thebuttonhole it is in the position shown in said Fig. 14. Be fore thesewing begins on the next buttonhole the turret is given a reverse halfrotation to bring it back into the position shown in Fig. 2 and as theturret completes its reverse half rotation the ear 107 is carried aroundthe end 108 of the lever 104 as shown in Fig. 2. During the formation ofthe first stitches on the button hole the lever 104 is swung from theposit-ion shown in Fig. 2 to that shown in Fig. 11, such swingingmovement causing the end 108 to engage the lug 107 and thus give theslide 86 its operative movement. This movement of the lever 104 issecured from. a pin 109 mounted in a bracket 110 secured to the bed 31of the machine.

It will be remembered that during the sewing on the buttonhole the frame1 with the turret is moving backwardly or toward the top of the sheet inFigs. 2 and 11. The pin 109, however, is carried by the stationarybracket 110 and hence as the frame 1 begins its feeding movement the camface 111 on the lever 104 engages the pin 109 and thereby causes thelever to have its operative movement as shown in Fig. 11. The feedingmovement of the frame 1 is sufiicient so that the end of the lever 104is carried beyond the pin 109 and as soon as this occurs the spring 105will restore the lever to the position shown in Fig. 2. The slide 86,however, will remain in its operative position until it has been restored to the dotted line position shown in Fig. 14 by the-lever 94, asabove described.

The pin 109 is yieldingly mounted as shown in Fig. 3, it being supportedin a sleeve 112 and backed by a spring 113. The under face ot the end ofthe lever 104 is bevelled as shown at 114. WVhen the first side of thebuttonhole has been completed the end of the lever 104 will be in thedotted line position Fig. 11 and during the return movement of the frame1 as the second side of the buttonhole is being sewed the bevelled face114 of the lever 104 will engage the pin 109 and depress the latter,thus allowing the end of the lever to pass over the pin without beingoperated. When the frame 1 has had its complete return movement theparts are in the relative position shown in Fig. 2, the end of the lever104'having passed off from the pin 109 so that the latter can rise underthe influence of the spring 113. With the parts in this position the pinis adjacent the cam 'face 111 so that upon the next forward movement ofthe frame 1 said pin will actuate the lever 104.- This pin and bevelledface 114 thus form a sort of switch cam which is operative during themovement of the frame in one direction but is inoperative during themovement in the opposite direction.

It will be noted that theunder thread cutter 57 operates above thethroatwhile the upper thread cutter '49 operates beneath the of upperthread, which loop is immediately pulled out from'th-e cloth by thepull-off 53, and subsequently the under thread cutter 57 is actuated tocut the under thread and stay cord, if one is used,above the throatplate.

While I- have illustrated hereina selected embodiment of the invention Ido not wishto be limited to the constructional features shown. r

Iclaim-rf V v In a buttonhole sewing machine, the combination. withstitch-forming mechanism, of buttonhole-cutting mechanism comprising twobuttonhole-cutting elements movable relative to each other, anda threadcuttersecured to one of said elements.

2. In a buttonhole sewing machine, the combination with stitch-formingmechanlsm,

of buttonhole-cutting mechanism comprising two [co-operating cuttingmembers, and a thread cutter carried by one member.

3. In a buttonhole sewing machine, the combination with stitch-formingmechanism, of buttonhole-cutting mechanism comprising a cutter and acutting block: movable toward and from .each other and a thread cuttercarried by one of said elements.

' 4-. In abuttonhole sewing machine, the

combination with stitch-forming mechanism,

of buttonhole-cutting mechanism comprising.

a buttonhole'cutter movable into and out of cutting position, a blockco-operating with the cutter, and a thread cutter carried by thebuttonhole cutter.

5. In a. buttonhole sewing machine, the combination with stitch-formingmechanism, of buttonhole-cutting mechanism comprising a buttonholecutter movable horizontally into. and out of operative position, acutting block co-opera'ting with the cutter and a thread .cutter 7carried by the buttonhole" cutter.

zontally-moving slide carrying the other member, means actuated by thelever to give 7 movement to the slide and thereby bring the membercarriedthereby into operative position, and a thread-trimming knifecarried by the slide. I x

7. Ina buttonhole sewing machine, the combination with stitch-formingmechanism for 'concatenating an upper and an under thread, ofbuttonhole-cutting mechanism comprising two buttonhole-cutting elementsmovable relative to each other and means secured to oneof said elementsto cut the upper thread. I

'8. In a buttonhole sewing machine, the combination with stitch-formingmechanism for concatenating an upper and an under thread, ofbuttonhole-cutting mechanism comprising two co-operating cutting mem-fbers, and a thread cutter carried by. one of saidinembers for cuttingthe upper thread." 9. In a buttonhole sewing machine, the'l' combinationwith stitch-forming mechanism. for concatenating an upper -.and an underthread, of buttonhole-cutting mechanism comprising two c'o-operatingcuttingmembers, a lever carryingone of said members, ahorizontally-moving slide on which the other member is mountetmeans'to'move the slide to bring the cutting member carried thereby intooperative position, andathread cutter fortrimming theupper' threadcarried by, the slide -10. In a buttonhole sewing machine,'thecombination with stitch-forming mechanism comprising upper threadhandling mechanism and under thread mechanism arranged so that when themachine comes'to rest a loop of upper thread is retained by the underthread mechanism, of buttonhole-cutting mechanism comprising twoco-opera'ting cutting members, and means carried by one member forcutting one leg of said loop of upper thread; 11. In a buttonhole sewingmachine, the combination with stitch-formingmechanism comprising upper"thread handling mechanism and under thread mechanism arranged so that"when the machine comes to *rest a loop of'upper J thread is re itsoperative movement at the end of the sewing operation, and knife carriedby said slide for cutting one leg of said loop of up. per thread. i

r 12. In a buttonhole sewingmachine, the

Ill

combination with stitclrforming mechanism comprising upper threadhandling mechanism and under thread mechanism arranged so that when themachine comes to rest a loop of upper thread is retained by the underthread mechanism, of buttonhole-cutting mechanism comprising twoco-operating cutting members, means carried by one member for cuttingone leg of said loop of upper thread, and means to pull the cut loop outfrom the work.

13. In a buttonholc sewing machine, the combination with stitch-formingmechanism con'iprising upper thread handling mechanism' and under threadmechanism arranged so that when the machine comes to rest a loop ofupper thread is retained by the under tlnread mechanism, ofbuttonhole-cutting mechanism comprising two co-operating cuttingmembers, a horizontally-moving slide on which one oi the members ismounted, means to give said slide its operative movement at the end ofthe sewing operation, a knife carried by said slide for cutting one legof said loop o'l? upper thread, and means to pull the cut loop out fromthe work.

Ll. In a buttonhole sewing machine, the eon'lbination withstitch-forming mechanism for concatenating an upper and under thread andconstructed so that when the machine comes to rest a loop of upperthread is retained by the under thread mechanism, off button-holecuttingmechanism comprising two cooperating cutting elements, a lever on whichone element is mounted, a cam for operating said lover, a slice on whichthe other cuttine element is mounted, means actuated by said lever tomove the slide to carry the cutting element thereon into operativeposition, a thread cutter carried by said slide and adapted to cut oneleg of the loop of upper thread, and means actuated by said lever topull said loop back through the work.

15. In a buttonhole sewing machine, the combinatitm with stitch-formingmechanism, of means to rotate said mechanism at the end ot thebuttonhole, and means actuated by the stitch-forming mechanism rotatingmeans to out the thread.

16. In a buttonhole sewing machine, the combination with stitch-formingmechanism dapted to concatenate an upper and an under thread, of meansto rotate said mechanism at the end of the buttonhole, and meansactuated by the devices by which the stitch-forming mechanism is rotatedto cut the under thread.

17, in a buttonhole sewing machine, the combination with stitch-formingmechanism mnnprising upper and under thread handling mechanism, a.turret carrying the under thread mechanism, means to rotate the turretat the end ot the buttonholc, and means actuated by the turretrotatingmeans to cut the under thread.

18. In a buttonhole sewing machine, the combination with stitch-formingmechanism comprising upper thread mechanism and under thread mechanism,a turret carrying the under thread mechanism, said turret having athroat, means to rotate the turret at the end of the buttonhole, andmeans actuated by the turret-rotating means to cut the under threadabove the throat and beneath the work.

19. In a buttonhole sewing machine, the combination with stitch-formingmechanism comprising upper thread mechanism and under thread mechanism,a turret carrying the under thread mechanism, said turret having athroat, means to rotate the turret at the end of the buttonhole, meansactuated by the turret-rotating means to cut the under thread above thethroat and beneath the work, and means on the turret to grip the underthread. i

20. In a buttonhole sewing machine, the combination with stitch-formingmechanism for concatenating an upper and an under thread, of means torotate said mechanism at the end of the buttonhole, means actuated bythe devices by which said mechanism is rotated to cut the under threadand means to hold. the cut end.

21. In a buttonhole sewing machine, the combination with stitchdormingmechanism for concatonating an upper and an under thread, of means torotate said mechanism at the end of the buttonhole, a cutter for theunder thread, a gripping finger to grip the under thread, n'ieansactuated by the devices by which said mechanism is rotated to give thecutter its cutting movement and means to control the operation of thegripping finger.

22. In a buttonhole sewing machine, the combination with stitch-formingmechanism for concatenating an upper and an under thread, means torotate said mechanism at the end of the buttonhole, a cutter for cuttingthe under thread, a springpressed gripping finger to grip the underthread, means normally holding the gripping linger in inoperativeposition, means actuated by the devices by which said mechanism isrotated to operate the cutter and means to release the gripping finger.

In a buttonhole sewing machine, the combination with stitch-formingmechanism for concatenating an upper and an under thread, of means torotate said mechanism at the end of the buttonl'iole, a tension for theunder thread, means actuated by the devices by which said mechanism isrotated to cut the under thread, and means to grip the cut on d and torelieve the tension.

24. In a buttonhole sewing machine, the combination with stitch-formingmechanism for concatenating an upper and an under thread, means torotate said mechanism at the end of the buttonhole, of a tension for theunder thread, means actuated by said lastnamed means to cut the underthread, means to grip the cut end and to relieve the tension, and meansto draw off a length of under thread w ien the tension is released.

25. In a buttonhole sewing'machine, the combination with stitch-formingmechanism for concatenating' an upper and an under thread, of means torotate saidmechanism at the end of the buttonhole, means actuated by thelast-named means to cut the under thread, means to grip the cut end, andmeans to release said cut end after the stitching has begun on the nextbuttonhole.

26. In a buttonhole sewing machine, the combination with stitch-formingmechanism for concatenating an upper and an under thread, of means forrotating said mechanism at the end of the buttonhole, a spring-pressedgripping finger to grip the thread,a cutter to cut the thread betweenthe gripping finger and the work, means normally holding the grippingfinger inoperative, means operated by the devices by which saidmechanism is rotated to operate the cutter, means to release thegripping finger, whereby the latter becomes operative to grip thethread, and means to render thegripping finger inoperative after thefirst stitches have been formed on the next succeeding buttonhole.

27. In a buttonhole sewing machine, the

combination with stitch-forming mechanism and work-holdmg means having arelativemovement, means to rotate said mechanism at the end of thebuttonhole, a thread-gripping finger to grip the under thread, a cutterto out said threadbetween the gripper and the work, means actuated bythe devices for rotating saidstitch-forming mechanism to operate thecutter, means to render'the gripping finger operative, and meansoperated by said relative movement to release the gripping finger afterthe stitching has begun on the next buttonhole. 7

28. in a'buttonhole-sewing machine, the combination with stitch-formingmechanism, of buttonhole-cutting mechanism, means to cut the underthread at the end of the sewing operation, and means controlled by thebut tonhole-cutting mechanism to grip the under thread.

29. In a buttonhole-sewing machine,- the combination with stitch-formingmechanism, of buttonhole-cutting mechanism, means to cut the underthread atthe end of the sewing o eration a sorin actuated threadri pinglinger to grip the under thread between the point where it is cut andthe source of supply, means normally holding the'finger inoperative, andmeans actuated by thebuttonhole-cutting mechanism to release said fingerafter the thread has been cut.

30. In a buttonhole-sewlng machine, the combination wlth stltch-forming'mechanism,

of buttonhole-cutting mechanism, means to In testimony whereof, I havesigned my name to this specification.

J OHN KIEWICZ.

